Food blog #1 - Café Tanque 'Casa do Presunto'
My first food blog in Portugal. Although it is immediately a special...
When I was at my barber for my monthly visit I got into conversation (for the second time) about our immigration, the apartments, the good food in the area, etc. After a while I got the recommendation for restaurant Zeca Moura/Café Tanque. 'Casa do Presunto'. A combination of a café, bar, and a shop. "The best Presunto (dried ham) in the area" I got as a comment.
From the side of the road you could almost miss it as you drive past, if it weren't for the large sign with the words 'Casa do Presunto' facing towards Chaves which, if you're looking for it, makes it hard to pass.
Since we arrived on a Tuesday evening at 7pm (early by Portuguese standards), the place looked empty at first glance. We would have walked in anyway, but the owner of the place, François, immediately came running out to let us know that they were open. We got out, and François ran down the driveway with his arms outstretched. We heard another cry of joy as he disappeared.
As soon as you walk in you will find a modest interior, as is the norm for Portuguese restaurants; Cosy, but not overly decorated. The walls are covered with shelves filled with all sorts of trinkets and ornaments such as model airplanes, statues, flags, etc. In the corner of the room is a large television screen showing a football match.
Did you know: did you know that in some places even matches from the Dutch league are shown? At least, if there is nothing better to watch! 😉
We sat down at one of the many tables and asked if we could have something to eat. We really came for the Presunto, and it is good to know that there is not much choice either. After all, you don't go to the 'Casa do Presunto' to eat a steak, right?
While François patiently began to cut the ham, we were already served bread, olives and raw onion in vinegar and olive oil with salt. That may not sound like a delicacy, but the opposite is true. The sweet onion in combination with the crispy salt has a pleasant and pronounced taste. Although it may not be recommended for those who do not like vinegar like my brother. By the way, I found it perfectly balanced.
After a few minutes we finally got what we came for, a beautiful bowl of Presunto served in a spiral. Of course we came with the expectation of the very best Presunto in the area. Moment of truth: ...... fantastic. The first pieces we took were immediately a fantastic experience. The Presunto was very soft and tender. And not sticky, as my brother would say. By that I mean that it does not get stuck in your throat and is difficult to swallow like some other Presuntos.
A ham is often cut in such a way that you have a piece of meat and a piece of fat that runs along the edge. With some Presuntos, for us, it is necessary to remove this edge because the fat can sometimes be rancid depending on your taste. This was not the case here. The fat contributed to the taste and almost melted on your tongue. Just like you have with a well-marbled steak. Even my brother ate the ham with the fat on it, and when it comes to Presunto he is very picky and does not like every type. A Presunto must therefore come from good homes for him, and that was the case here.
During the evening we often talked to François. On Google I found a review earlier that the food was good but that there was no service with the result no more than 3 stars. This does not do the location, and the owner who runs it with the help of his wife and daughters, justice.
1: the food is not good, the food is fantastic. But you should not come with the expectation of seeing an extensive menu.
2: It is rare (in the Netherlands) that you experience the owner of a restaurant or café paying so much attention and showing genuine interest in you.
Of course, we were here on a quiet evening, unlike some of the busier afternoons in the summer. But François has a heart of gold, which is evident in the way he treated us that evening, but also in the pride he showed in how beautifully and thinly he had cut the Presunto (which he said maybe 4 times, and rightly so). And this is indeed something I would not immediately imitate.
Our experience here is the perfect example of why we fell in love with Portugal. For people like François and his family, for the feeling that you, as a foreigner, belong to that family after the evening is over. And for the respect for the hard-working middle class who work with passion. And to provide for themselves and their family, without the obsessive focus on 'more, more, more'.
If I were to give a rating I would end up with five stars, and every one of them is deserved. If you are in the area, also visit Café Tanque (Zeca Moura). At 'Casa do Presunto'. And enjoy this excellent Presunto that the region is famous for. And when you are there, say hello from me! 😉 François speaks good English but will appreciate it if you speak a little Portuguese or even French with him.
Abraços, Antoine
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